Route 747 – Florence

Florence

Als ik ben neergestreken aan een tafeltje in restaurant San Marco bij Verona voel ik me opgelucht. Want na een tocht door de Oostenrijkse bergen en dalen had ik verwacht dat achter de Brennerpas het Italiaanse landschap zich in al zijn Zuidelijke glorie voor me zou ontvouwen. Maar in plaats daarvan stonden me eerst nog enkele uren Autostrada te wachten met links en rechts de kammen van de Dolomieten. Adembenemende, maar na tientallen ooohs en aahs was ik wel toe aan de vlakke vergezichten in het land van Lombardijen.

Ik maak een reis van kitsch naar kunst, van Innsbruck naar Florence. Van de lederhosen van Tirol naar de David van Michelangelo in Firenze. Dat moet wel een soort van culturele jetlag opleveren, dus eerst maar eens goed eten, in het dorpje Caprino vlakbij het Garda Meer. Mijn ogen zoeken de ober en vinden de rijzige gestalte van een Figaro. De eigenaar van het hotel-restaurant die me met galmende basstem welkom heet, maar alleen maar ‘nee’ schudt als ik om de kaart vraag. Hebben ze niet, een kaart. Maar wil ik een voorgerecht. Ik knik ‘ja’. Eerst maar eens Antipasti. Warm of koud. Warm graag. En daarna…

Figaro lacht zo hard dat zijn buik ervan schudt. Dan legt hij zijn hand op mijn arm en zegt bijna fluisterend: “Er is wel een ‘daarna’ maar we maken het hier zelden mee dat een gast daaraan toekomt.”

Toch enigszins verontrust wacht ik op mijn voorgerecht. Ik zie het berichtje al voor me, in de rubriek Nooit Opgehelderde Gastronomische Verdwijningen in Lombardije. Maar als ik eenmaal de ovalen schotel van een armlengte zie, volbeladen met tientallen heerlijke hapjes, slaat mijn angst om in verrukking: daarom zijn kaarten hier overbodig. Je krijgt gewoon het hele menu! Regelmatig komt Figaro langs om te vragen of het lekker is. Maar hij doet dat niet als een nederig knipmessende ober, die vist naar een complimentje, nee, de eigenaar van San Marco heeft iets van triomf in zijn stem als hij zijn gelijk komt halen: “Is dat lekker of niet?” Ik kwispel zo mea culpa mogelijk. En nee dank u, een hoofdgerecht gaat niet meer lukken.

Na het eten bestel ik koffie met een cognacje erbij. Als ik daarna een voorkeur wil noemen legt Figaro andermaal zijn hand op mijn arm en fluistert “sssstt.” Hij weet genoeg. En even later draagt hij de flessen aan, armen vol flessen Remy Martin, Vecchia Romagna, Stavecchio Branca, Duque d’Alba, Cardinal Mendoza… Daarna zet hij plechtig een glas voor me neer en zegt: “en als u een nieuw warm glas nodig hebt, dan hoor ik het wel…”

Van Tirol naar Florence: een reis van kitsch naar kunst. Natuurlijk: Tirol is net zo min een land van koekoeksklokken en lederhosen als Nederland uitsluitend een land van klompen en tulpen is. Toch moeten de vergeelde foto’s in de vitrine van louche bioscoopjes als Parisien een onvergetelijke indruk op me hebben gemaakt, toen ik er als puber voor stond in de Jaren Zestig en titels las als “Met Jouw Waldhorn Tussen Mijn Alpen.” Maar ik zie nergens Hanzen met lange bakkebaarden en jagershoedjes op achter dirndls en mädel aanrennen in de omgeving van Innsbruck. Hooguit tref ik er wat dorpjes aan waar ook doordeweeks een vredige burgerlijke stilte heerst achter een overvloed van geraniums op blinkende witte balkonnetjes. Hier woont al sinds het begin van de jaartelling het Tiroler volk, een wild bergvolk dat tot 1400 in een eigen Herrschaft leefde, maar na de dood van Meinhardt von Görz-Tirol wegens gebrek aan stamhouders door zijn moeder Margarete cadeau werd gedaan aan keizer Rudolf van Oostenrijk. Het zijn altijd de Friezen van Oostenrijk geweest, deze gereserveerde Tirolers met hun eigen tradities en gebruiken. Ze zijn er trots op nooit een aanvalsoorlog te hebben gevoerd, maar des te vaker moesten ze zich verdedigen, met geweren die inderhaast uit een naburig museum leken te zijn betrokken. Bijvoorbeeld in hun vrijheidsstrijd tegen de Romeinse Septimus Severus of tegen de Franse Napoleon. Of in de Eerste Wereldoorlog, waarna Tirol het gebied ten Zuiden van de Brenner moet afstaan aan Italië.

Tegenwoordig leeft Tirol hoofdzakelijk van het toerisme. En zijn het toch weer de koekoeksklokken, de lederhosen en de jagershoedjes die je op de stoep van elk toeristenwinkeltje al van verre toeschreeuwen. Zoals het volksliedje al zegt: “Ich kauf mir lieber ein Tirolerhut, denn die steht mir so gut.” Je zou toch zweren dat het hout is, zegt de ene Nederlander tegen de andere, terwijl hij een monstrueus plastic weerhuisje bewondert. Ik houd een sneeuwkoepeltje op zijn kop, en terwijl ik zie hoe de vlokjes neerdalen op Tiroler bambi’s besluit ik dat het tijd wordt om dit land te verlaten. Liefst nog vóór etenstijd, want er staan Gröschtl op het menu, en knoedel…deegballen van geweekt brood, meel en eieren, gerookt spek en worst in een rundvleesbouillon. En dat smaakt ongeveer zó:

Na mijn overhaaste vlucht over de Brennerpas wil ik zo snel mogelijk naar Florence. Daarom weersta ik de verleiding om af en toe de autostrada te verlaten en het panorama binnen te rijden dat ik links en rechts van me steeds weer zie: okergele huizen met grijsrode dakpannen die tegen de bergkammen lijken aangeplakt. Bij Bolzano had ik de Grande Strada delle Dolomiti kunnen nemen, de 110 kilometer lange weg die naar Cortina d’Ampezzo voert. Door een adembenemend landschap  met steile rotswanden en watervallen…langs het Lago di Carezza, over hoge passen, langs dichte bossen en door woeste rotslandschappen en gletsjers. Maar verder gaat de reis over de Autostrada, tot de bergen links en rechts uitlopers worden en ik bij het Garda Meer de open Po-vlakte binnenrijdt die voert naar Verona, Bologna en Firenze.

Wie nog nooit eerder in Italië is geweest en Verona binnenrijdt weet eerst niet wat hem overkomt. Want hij ziet een statig plein met daar omheen één grote okergele zonbeschenen droom: trotse gebouwen met galerijen uit de Oudheid over de volle lengte van een pleinzijde, en daartussen de terrassen. Meer dan in welk Mediterraan land schittert in Italië de glorie van het Romeinse verleden in elke stad. Niet alleen in de eeuwenoude architectuur van gerechtsgebouwen en arena’s…ook, zoals hier in Verona, in het romantische Casa de Julietta, het huis met het balkon waar Julia ooit moet hebben gestaan. Shakespeare baseerde zich namelijk op historische feiten toen hij zijn toneelstuk schreef. De vete tussen de families Cappelli en Montecchi was er echt. De figuren Romeo en Julia verzon hij echter zelf, en wie hier naar het balkon staat te staren houdt zichzelf dus een beetje voor de gek. Het balkon hangt ook een beetje hoog, en tenzij Julia hem toeschreeuwde kan Romeo haar nauwelijks hebben verstaan toen ze, onder de dreiging om hun liefde verbannen te worden, tegen hem zei: “Zonder Verona’s muren bestaat slechts kwelling, foltering, de hel zelf, mijn liefste. Van hier verbannen worden is verbannen worden uit de wereld.”

Een wandeling door Florence is een weldaad voor de zintuigen. Waar je ook loopt, in een winkelstraat als de Via de Tornabuoni, over de Marcato Centrale of langs de Ponte Vecchio…overal is een prachtig beeld, een beroemde kerk of bezienswaardige palazzo achter de volgende straathoek. Dit is de stad waar de mensheid zich oprichtte uit de Donkere Middeleeuwen en opnieuw geboren werd. Hier scheen voor het eerst het Licht van de Renaissance en werd de mens een scheppende mens, die zijn gevoel wilde delen. Die koortsachtig schilderijen ging maken, en beelden, en gebouwen waar het leven vanaf spat. De Primavera van Botticelli, de David van Michelangelo, de Duomo met het Baptisterium…en daarin de Paradijspoort van Ghiberti, de kunstenaar die voor het eerst perspectief aanbrengt… hier maakte Andrea del Castagno een geheel nieuwe versie van het Laatste Avondmaal en hier zag Dante Alighieri in de straat zijn Beatrice lopen en schreef zijn Divina Comedia.

We laten Porto en Rotterdam maar in de waan, maar ik ben geboren in de stad met de Euromast, en als ik neerzak op een terrasje aan het Piazza della Signoria schiet ik onwillekeurig in de lach. Want natuurlijk: dit is de echte culturele hoofdstad van Europa, zonder concurrentie. Ik zie het Fontana di Nettuno, met de Romeinse zeegod Neptunus omgeven door waternimfen…het bronzen standbeeld de Perseus van Cellini, de David van Michelangelo en de Roof van de Sabijnse Maagden, uit één stuk marmer gehakt door Giambologna. En ik zie dat alles vanaf dit ene terrasje!

Ik voel me omgeven door zoveel schoonheid, beschenen door zo’n Italiaanse zon, dat ik alleen maar kan denken: dit is geluk! Ik bestel een Bistecca Alla Fiorentina en ga dan, misschien wel uit angst voor zoveel puur geluk, aan Almere zitten denken.

Want ineens heb ik het begrepen, waarom ik me op plaatsen als Almere altijd zo unheimisch voel. Altijd het gevoel heb dat de bewoners van die stad gisteren met een vliegende schotel zijn geland en morgen weer vertrekken. Hier in Florence, hebben duizenden mensen hun handtekening onder het Leven gezet. Hier voel je de aanwezigheid van inspiratie door de eeuwen heen, hier weet je dat het leven meer is dan een plat vlak, een platonisch verblijf van voorbijgaande aard. Hier zijn mensen méér geweest dan passanten en forenzen, en welke kant je ook opkijkt, je ziet er overal het levende bewijs van. Als de ober komt en ik om de kaart vraag schudt hij zijn hoofd. Ik glimlach en zeg: “Brengt u me maar iets. Ik laat me graag verrassen!”

 

 

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230 comments

  1. Willemijn van Straalen

    Heerlijk om te horen Peter van Bruggen. ‘Vroeger’ luisterde ik zo graag ‘s nachts naar deze fantastische radioprogramma’s, helaas wordt zoiets moois niet meer gemaakt. Maar ik heb je website gevonden en ga het opnieuw beluisteren. De eerste over Florence doet me terugdenken aan de twee weken dat wij daar verbleven in de winter, net voor de kerst. Wat een sfeervolle, prachtige stad!

    Hartelijk dank!

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